Rooted in Innovation

Published


Written by
Bianca Cramer

When Anne-Christin Bansleben began studying rhubarb as part of her academic research in nutritional science, she didn’t expect it to lead to a material innovation that would challenge the leather industry. Today, she’s the founder and managing director of deepmello – rhubarb technology GmbH, the company behind a plant-based tanning process using rhubarb roots. With a strong mission for sustainability and a background in science, Anne-Christin has turned a lab discovery into a market-ready alternative to conventional leather, building not just a product, but a movement.

 

Can you tell us about your background and how it led you to explore sustainable materials?

I come from a scientific background, having studied Oecotrophology and later earned a PhD in Nutritional Sciences. During my research, my colleagues and I developed a method for tanning leather using rhubarb instead of harmful substances like chromium. It was this discovery that laid the foundation for our company.

What motivated you to move from academia into entrepreneurship?

There was a clear need for more sustainable tanning methods, and I saw that the only way to bring this idea into practice was to take it to market myself. That realization pushed me to found what would become Rhubarb Technology GmbH.

How did rhubarb become the material of choice for leather tanning?

It actually started by chance. We were analyzing the plant for completely different research questions when we discovered that the root contains tannins that could work for leather tanning. At that time – nearly 20 years ago – sustainability wasn’t yet a mainstream concern, particularly in industrial production. But we saw the potential and began developing a method to extract these tanning agents.

 

Handbags made with tanned leather from deepmello ©deepmello
What makes rhubarb leather unique compared to other sustainable alternatives?

Our approach is extremely local and transparent. The rhubarb we use is grown in the region, and our leather comes from Germany or neighbouring countries. Tanning also takes place in Germany, under controlled and ethical conditions. We source hides from cattle raised with animal welfare standards, which is reflected in the quality of our final product.

What challenges did you face in developing this innovation?

Financing was the biggest hurdle, especially early on. We had to pre-finance production, which meant putting in significant investments ourselves. Initially, we used income from our academic jobs to fund the company, until that was no longer sustainable. Eventually, we found an investor who believed in our mission.

What was it like to position a sustainable product in the broader international market?

The key is not to compare yourself only with other sustainable brands. Customers compare you with what they already know: conventional products. So, we had to compete on quality, consistency, and capacity, just like any traditional manufacturer. Only then are you seen as a real alternative.

 

Transition to tanned leather ©deepmello
How important were collaborations with other industries or institutions for your growth?

They were essential. When we started, I had no background in leather tanning. I had to learn quickly, from a kind of crash course to hands-on production work. That experience still helps today, allowing me to communicate effectively with both production teams and customers.

What’s your vision for the future of sustainable materials in fashion and design?

Beyond our work with rhubarb leather, I co-founded re:sap which is a network for sustainable business practices. We want to increase transparency, support each other as entrepreneurs, and push back against greenwashing in the industry.

How does your involvement with re:sap complement your entrepreneurial mission?

It’s all part of the same goal: to create real impact. Through re:sap, we share knowledge and resources while advocating for more visible, honest, sustainable business models.

It’s all part of the same goal: to create real impact.
What were some personal lessons you learned during your transition from science to entrepreneurship?

In research, you’re used to working alone for long periods. That made it hard, at first, to ask for help or involve others. But I’ve learned how important it is to build a team early on.

What advice would you offer to other purpose-driven founders?

Get support early, especially for things outside your expertise. It keeps the momentum going and helps you stay motivated.

What drives you to keep going every day?

I rarely lose focus. I like to finish things. That sense of closure and purpose keeps me moving forward.

Any mentors, books, or moments that inspired your journey?

There weren’t many direct role models for someone on my path. Working in analytical chemistry, founding a company while employed full-time, and navigating an industry still dominated by men. But I’d recommend Start with Why by Simon Sinek! It’s a great guide for clarifying the purpose.

Final thoughts?

Be brave.

What happens next?

Check out our event calendar for upcoming workshops. Stay tuned for more updates, opportunities, and success stories!

Connect with Anne-Christin Bansleben via LinkedIn!

Interviewer & Editor, Design: Bianca Cramer

 

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